How to do Venice in 48hrs

Canals, gondoliers, romance, swaying buildings and mystery persons wearing
painted masks. This guide will help you get behind the mask of Venice in just
48 hours.

Providing you haven't spent the better part of the day trying to locate
your accommodation you may find some time after checking in to do some exploring.
One of the first things you will notice is no traffic. Vehicles are restricted
to the last piece of solid ground near the train station, Piazzale Roma. This
is where the bus terminal and public carparks are located and where your journey
begins.

10:00

As you walk across the first of 409 bridges spanning the 150 canals you may
wonder what inspired the original inhabitants to build their city afloat on
117 tiny islands in a marshy lagoon. The key reason was safety and protection
from the marauding non-swimmer Attila the Hun. However the locals soon learnt
that the centralised location was equally important in terms of European trade.

Walking the streets of Venice is an attraction in itself. The architecture
is a mix of Byzantine, Renaissance and opulent Austro-Hungarian tastes. Narrow
alleyways lead into decorative courtyards or twist around corners to hidden
gardens. Some of the buildings have taken on a seriously disturbing lean that
can leave you feeling dizzy and hoping that they remain standing for a few minutes
more as you pass beneath.

There are three main street signs mostly visible with arrows pointing to either
Piazzale Roma, or 'Ferrovia' (the train station) or towards Piazza
San Marco and more often than not, in both directions. There are wider street
arteries which allow the majority of crowds to find San Marco with ease but
to get a real sense of Venice it is recommended to get off the beaten track.

12:00

Turn a few corners and after a few hours you will have been totally lost and
found again, either ending up at the Ferrovia or hopefully in Piazza San Marco.You

The campanile was built as a lookout and lighthouse on foundations that dated
back to the Roman period. Added to and enlarged over several centuries the end
result was a total collapse in 1902 and a huge international effort to rebuild
it brick by brick. The logetta base relief at the base of the tower was painstakingly
pieced back together after being completely shattered by the falling bricks.
The climb to the top of the campanile is worth it for the view across the lagoon
to the outlying islands and a great way to orientate yourself. Gallileo even
demonstrated his telescope to the Doges up here.

The other obvious thing to dominate the square is the sheer number of pigeons.
They are usually seen covering small children which kindly parents have doused
in birdseed in hopes the birds will fly away with them. On a slightly more serious
note the rumour is there is a $500US fine for anyone caught kicking the pigeons.
It's really tempting but…

Looking south out between the pillars topped by the winged lion, the symbol
of Venice, and the statue of St Theodore you will see water craft bobbing about
including the vaporetti, Venice's metro system, ferrying workers and tourists
from island to island. Then there are the delivery boats, fire, ambulance and
police boats, water taxis and the distinctive black gondolas.

You would have seen these gliding effortlessly through the canals between the
houses during your walk carrying couples and groups of tourists, propelled by
striped shirted men with a long oar and quite possibly singing an opera tune.

Continuing past the Doges Palace and turning left will bring you out onto the
most south-eastern edge of the square. There is yet another bridge to cross
but it may look crowded with tourists looking up a canal at another bridge.
The object of their fascination is the Ponte Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs. It
is an enclosed bridge linking the palace courts to the old prison. A last breath
of fresh air could be gasped by prisoners at the tiny latticed window before
being dragged off to the 'leads'.

14:00

Now to head back towards the Rialto Bridge. There will be a few signs directing
you towards this and again they may appear to go in both directions. The bridge
is the oldest one of three in the world that is occupied by shops.

The Rialto was mediaeval Europe's trading centre with traders from the
orient bringing goods to wealthy Venetian merchants. Usury, or money lending,
was also practised contributing significantly to the city coffers making Venice
extremely prosperous.

The current stone bridge was constructed in the 1500's after a competition
was run to find a solution to the regular problems of flooding and fires that
kept destroying the wooden ones.It was successfully won by architect Antonio
da Ponte. It also had to be tall enough to allow warships to pass beneath on
their way to the crusades.

Depending on where you are staying or how tired the feet are it might be time
to catch a vaporetto up the Grand Canal. For a fraction of the cost of a gondola
trip you can take the 40 minute ride up the Grand Canal, go beneath the Rialto
as well as see the magnificent mansions, palaces and plush Venetian hotels that
line the banks.

19:00

Venice by night is far more peaceful as the noise of the boats going about their
daily business subsides and the canals are left to the gondolas and the odd
taxi. Dinner can be an expensive affair unless you know where to go. A rough
guide is the further away from Piazza San Marco the cheaper, however there are
some good value places around in places such as Cannareggio, Dorsoduro, San
Polo and Santa Croce. Look more for osterias while some bars also serve bar
snacks and light meals.

Many Venetian locals no longer live in the city due to the high living costs,
preferring to reside on the mainland in Mestre. As a result there isn't
a particularly energetic nightlife after hours. There are a few jazz bars where
you can get pricey cocktails. Venice's most famous establishment is Harry's
Bar in San Marco, where the Bellini was born. This is a tasty combination of
champagne and peach juice.

09:00

An early start is necessary to ensure you get where you are going and to hopefully
beat the crowds. Venice is a popular city all year round, summer and winter,
and there doesn't appear to be a low season as such. The weather can sometimes
be a blessing as passing showers can keep the large crowds at bay and make queuing
time shorter. Flooding is common in winter.

Entry to the Basilica can either be a long line shuffling through the doors
or a quick step inside. Watch your step as the floor has taken on an undulating
feel due to years of flooding. Beneath the altar lies the remains of St Mark,
the patron saint of the city. St Mark was actually a replacement patron as the
city fathers felt the original one, St Theodore, was lacking in ecclesiastical
clout.

The mosaic above the door to the left portrays the bringing of St Marks body
back from Alexandria in Egypt in 828. A chapel was constructed to house the
remains but burnt down in 932, to be replaced with a more substantial basilica
in 1063. During some of the renovations St Marks body was lost but was eventually
found and relocated to the crypt beneath the altar.

Above the door way stands the Quadriga on the loggia balcony. These four horses
are copies of the originals that are housed inside in the Galleria. They were
stolen during the sacking of Constantinople. There is a small fee to enter the
Galleria upstairs where you can view the original horses as well as get a great
view over the entire Basilica's interior.

10:00

The Palazzo Ducale was begun in the 10thC as the formal residence of the Doges.
These men were responsible for the government, administration and justice system
for the entire republic of the Veneto. The rooms and hallways are filled from
floor to ceiling with paintings, frescoes and sculptures. In particular is one
of the largest oil paintings in the world, Tintoretto's Paradise. Many
of the works shown are by Tintoretto, Sansovino and Veronese reflecting the
wealth brought to the city by the traders.

You also cross the Ponte Sospiri to the palace prisons offering a chance to
get an idea of what the prisoners must have felt on their way to their incarceration.
One of the more famous inhabitants was Casanova, the legendary womaniser, imprisoned
in 1755 for dealings in the 'occult' by the State Inquisition and
the only one to successfully escape.

14:00

The streets around San Marco area are filled with shops and churches, all offering
some more examples of fine art, architecture and craftsmanship. Not least is
the impressive Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute, the church opposite the square
marking the entrance to the Grand Canal. This church was built in honour of
the Virgin Mary in the 17thC whom the city believed protected them from an outbreak
of plague.

15:00

Making your way further up the Grand Canal you will reach the 20thC Peggy Guggenheim
collection in Dorsoduro. She lived in Palazzo Venier dei Leoni for 30 years
before dying in 1979. Her collection contains works by Picasso, Mondrian, Chagall,
Ernst, Miro, Magritte, Bacon and Dali. The garden contains more sculptures as
well as the graves of Ms Guggenhiem and her dogs.

10:00

There is a 10 minute vaporetto ride from Fondamente Nove on the LN line to Murano
where the glass artisans have been working their trade since 1291. Venetian
glass was one of the most prized items for the wealthy around Europe and it
is still revered today. The glass makers were moved here by ducal decree after
one too many fires and were also charged with treason if they tried to leave
town, such was the prizing of their skill in the craft. Today you can watch
them at work on their premises so keep an eye out for signs with 'fornace'.
Some places even offer more structured guided tours and demonstrations.

12:00

You can then continue on to Burano from Murano-Faro, the journey takes 30 minutes.
Burano is the home to the centuries old tradition of lace making. The lace was
an extension of the fishing nets made by the women on the island and became
well known in courts around mediaeval Europe as being the finest quality. The
island is distinctive also for the bold colours the houses are painted in.

16:00

From Burano it takes an hour to reach Venice's hotspot for celebrity and
films- the Lido. The Venice film festival is held here every year attracting
the stars from all over Europe and now more commonly non Europeans. Even if
the stars are not out there is the beach which gives a bit of respite from the
bridges. The resort is not as hip as it once was but the prices are still geared
towards those with a bit more cash. The trip back to San Marco should take about
15 minutes.

So there is the best Venice has to offer in 48 hours, all the essentials to
get you behind the mask of this unique city.

Katy Hyslop has been wandering around in the European Tourism industry for
the past 6 years and is now currently keeping the Plus
Office in line. If you want to find out more about opening times and entry fees
in Venice visit this page.